This page covers adding the motors, cylinder blocks and running gear.
1. Add the Flea motors back to the gear boxes. Run-in the motor/gear box and do low voltage DC testing to check for side rod binding, tire wobble or blind driver misalignment and fix any issues. Lubricate the gear box with Moly Grease and paint the ABS plastic with Grimy Black
2. During run-in and low voltage testing, one of the bind points was between the transfer axle and one of the plastic frame spacers. Add a piece of 1/4"x1/8" rectangular plastic tubing to support the front of the motor. This tubing is mounted to the frame sides using #0-80x1/16" set screws. (These photos show the side rods removed and the pickups moved out of the way to ensure they are not creating additional bind points)
3. The original running gear was a modified C-16 cylinder block and crosshead from Precision scale. This approach suffered from both being overscale and adding excessive weight to the front of the engine. The cylinder block was replaced by a scale model that was printed at Shapeways and attached to the frame with a #0 screw and a set screw to hold it in place. (add photo of 0-6-0)
4. The main rod/crosshead subassembly is made from a Precision scale crosshead and a custom fabricated main rod, mated using a 4mm passenger car bushing from Alan Gibson shops as the pin.
5. Solder flat brass to the back of the crosshead to form a sleeve, drill out the cast mounting pin on the crosshead with a #64 bit, mount the main rod on the bushing and use a drop of solder to attach the bushing to the crosshead.
6. Install main rods and crossheads, bending the main rod to clear the front crankpin and repeat low voltage testing to address any main rod or crosshead binding. (add 0-6-0 photo to the right)